Construction is the cornerstone of bespoke tailoring, occupying even greater significance than elements such as fabric choice and fit. It is through Antonacci’s fastidious attention to detail that we craft a unique and perfectly fitting garment into something legendary.
Bespoke tailoring entails incorporating strategic fabric allowances, or inlays, at key seams, enabling us to make alterations throughout the various fitting stages. This allows us to have greater flexibility and control of the final fit, far beyond made-to-measure capabilities.
We source our own canvas, typically a premium blend of wool and animal hair. This canvas begins to conform to your body’s contour, fitting you better over time the more you wear your garment. We can use up to multiple layers of canvas, especially in constructing the chest piece, or forepart.
The wool canvas provides the foundation for the suit jacket, covering the chest area and lapels. Upon this canvas front, we add darts and pockets, and tape the armhole to create a semi canvas.
In bespoke suiting, the canvas extends throughout the entire jacket front, running from the shoulder’s upper edge down to the bottom hem. The outer and inner fabrics are then hand-stitched to the full length of the canvas interlining.